BY STEVEN MAY 28, 2023
BY STEVEN MAY 28, 2023
BY STEVEN MAY 28, 2023
BY STEVEN MAY 28, 2023
BY STEVEN MAY 28, 2023
Finding the right pair of dress shoes isn’t just about style—it’s about balance. You want a pair that looks sharp with a suit, feels comfortable on long days, and works just as well with chinos or jeans. For years, I’ve tested dozens of derbies in search of that ideal mix. I decided to try a pair from BLKBRD Shoemaker. It is my first pair of BLKBRD shoes, and I have been interested in ordering something from this highly reputable Indian shoemaker for a couple years.
I might have found a pair that checks all the boxes!
The Luke Derby from BLKBRD Shoemaker, an emerging Indian brand, is a shoe I wore for three straight days on a business trip. It’s built on a thoughtful last, crafted with high-quality leather, and finished with the kind of subtle details you’d expect in shoes twice the price. In short—it’s a great product, and in this review, I’ll show you why.
Whether this is your first time hearing about blkbrd shoes, or you’re a veteran of high-end footwear, the Luke Derby might be your next essential.
Straight out of the box, the Luke Derby impresses. The shoe features a bold yet understated silhouette, characterized by clean lines and a smart, slightly almond-shaped toe. It’s made using Hidro pull-up leather from the renowned R. P. Comipel tannery, which means the leather has oils that shift somewhat as the shoe flexes, giving it a rich, evolving patina over time.
You won’t find unnecessary stitching or branded metal bits here. This shoe is about restraint and proportion. And while the aesthetic is minimalist, it comes with a nice little touch: a soft cotton shoe bag and an included shoe horn—details that speak to the epitome of shoemaking skills that the team at BLKBRD Shoemaker is clearly aiming for.
The Luke is built on the Holden last, which I found particularly well-balanced. It’s a classic derby last with ample room in the toe box—great for extended wear—while still fitting an average-width foot securely through the heel and instep. It’s available in full and half sizes, which is a major plus for finding a more personalized fit.
For my first time trying a BLKBRD last, I was impressed by the combination of roominess and sleekness. It doesn’t feel bulky like many traditional derby shoes. Instead, it rides the line between formal and casual—a look that adapts easily to different lasts and outfit styles.
This is where blkbrd shoes seriously raise the bar.
The Luke Derby features a hand-welted construction, which is time-intensive but delivers a blend of flexibility, water resistance, and long-term durability. It’s similar to Goodyear welted construction in terms of longevity but breaks in far faster—an important detail if you plan to wear these often.
The outsole is rubber but styled like a Dainite sole—low-profile, grippy, and weather-ready. Unlike chunky lug soles, this one adds functionality without compromising the shoe’s silhouette. It’s paired with a leather midsole, full leather lining, and a leather shank for arch support—all hallmarks of a shoe made with the finest materials.
It’s not just tough—it’s comfortable.
To give you a real, honest evaluation, I didn’t just wear the BLKBRD Shoes Luke Derby once or twice around the office. I wore it for three full days across a business trip that included long flights, meetings, hotel lobbies, rainy sidewalks, and dinners out.
Worn with slacks and an unstructured navy blazer. A little snug out of the box (as expected), but no hotspots or pinching. By evening, the leather uppers had already started to flex to my stride.
Paired with a suit for meetings, followed by a dressier dinner downtown. Fit improved further, and the insole felt like it was shaping to my foot. Grip on wet pavement was solid.
Wore them with dark denim and a dress shirt. No fatigue, no stiffness. The shoe had fully broken in—and looked even better than it did on day one.
This real-world testing confirmed two things: the Luke is built for longevity, and the break-in curve is much shorter than other Goodyear welted options I’ve reviewed in the same price point.
The Luke Derby lives in the space where a dress shoe meets everyday wear. It can absolutely handle formal duties with a suit, but where it shines is with business casual and elevated casual looks.
I tried a few combinations:
Charcoal suit + white shirt = sharp and refined
Chinos + knit polo + sport coat = confident business casual
Slim dark denim + oxford shirt = modern smart casual
Because of its subtle finish and strong profile, it complements both softer casual fabrics and structured tailoring. It’s not too shiny, not too rugged—a main line shoe that adapts to your wardrobe.
This kind of great value is rare, especially for men who want one pair of shoes that can serve multiple settings.
Let’s talk briefly about the maker behind the shoe. BLKBRD Shoemaker, founded by Sandeep Parihar, is one of several Indian shoemakers challenging the notion that high-quality shoes only come from Europe or the U.S.
What makes BLKBRD different is their fusion of European materials (like box calf and Hidro leathers), traditional hand-welted shoes craftsmanship, and a modern, refined design sensibility.
BLKBRD Luke Derby “Blucher”
And unlike legacy brands with inflated prices, BLKBRD shoes sells direct to consumer, keeping costs down. That’s how you get a shoe of this build and material at the incredible price of $215—a price range where most shoes are glued, synthetic, or just plain uninspired.
BLKBRD also experiments with different lasts across models, and their sizing includes half sizes, which helps men find a proper fit no matter the shape of their feet.
The quality of BLKBRD is not just in materials, but in their philosophy—respect for the craft, without cutting corners. They don’t overload you with marketing fluff. Instead, they let the quality of the shoes do the talking.
If you want a durable, stylish, and truly versatile dress shoe that works with both suits and smart-casual outfits, the Luke Derby from BLKBRD Shoemaker is a standout.
It combines:
Best materials like Hidro pull-up leather and leather insoles
Thoughtful, supportive fit from the Holden last
Handcrafted quality using hand-welted construction
Versatile styling across business and casual wardrobes
Real comfort after just one day of wear
An honest, well-executed design at a very fair price point
This isn’t a one-trick shoe. It’s the kind of footwear you bring on a work trip and wear from the terminal to the conference room to dinner—all without changing.
Pros
✅ Exceptional leather quality and upper feel
✅ Sleek but supportive fit on a versatile last
✅ Breaks in fast and performs across conditions
✅ Rubber sole similar to Dainite = grip + durability
✅ Excellent value for the quality of the shoes
✅ Built by a passionate, rising brand with global skill
Cons
➖ Availability can be limited in some sizes
➖ Not ideal for formal black tie (but it’s not meant to be)
There’s a reason I review shoes the way I do—wearing them, testing them, living in them. And the Luke Derby has earned a spot in my regular rotation. It’s a thoughtful, reliable shoe that reflects everything blkbrd shoes is about: little things done right, from the last to the finishing stitch.
Whether it’s your first time trying a quality Indian shoemaker or you’re looking to upgrade from glued, mass-market footwear, this is a confident step forward.
You’ll feel it the first time you lace them up.
