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When To Wear A Three-Piece – A Men’s Suit Style Guide

Selecting the right suit can be challenging. The world of men’s suits can be intimidating; hundreds of designs, styles, fabrics, and colors can be found at online retail stores. Which suit and jacket style will fit a particular event or business meeting? Are you deciding between a two-piece or three-piece suit? How about shirt style, color, fabric, belt, and shoes? Don’t worry. “Style” comes down to personal preference and context – what is the occasion? I will simplify the decision by outlining the key differences, benefits, and most appropriate occasions. This is a men’s style guide to help you simplify your suit purchase or outfit decision. If you want more, subscribe to this page and our new Prime Dude TV channel.

2-Piece or 3-Piece Suit? Keep it simple.

Essentially, the main difference between a 2-piece and a 3-piece suit is the addition of the waistcoat in the latter, also known as the “suit vest.” The 2-piece suit, a standard choice for many, comprises a suit jacket and a pair of trousers. The straightforward design and classic look of a 2-piece suit lend themselves to versatile wear and can effortlessly transition from a business meeting to semi-formal events. If you buy your first new suit, the 2-piece is your best choice.

Rob Edward's in a Two-Piece Suit from Azarman. Purchased on Amazon Prime

Cick to Buy on Amazon – Azarman

Meanwhile, a 3-piece suit also includes a vest, nestled snugly between the shirt and the jacket. This additional component adds a layer of formality to the ensemble, making a 3-piece suit ideal for highly formal occasions or significant business engagements. Furthermore, a vested suit amplifies the elegance of the suit but also serves as an attention-grabbing statement piece, setting you apart in a crowd. It is also a nice addition for wear during the winter months, as it adds an extra layer under the jacket. Sometimes, you will see a contrasting waistcoat, where the vest sports a different fabric color than the suit jacket.

Rob Edward's three-piece Barcelino Suit and Red Tie

3-Piece Italian Suit – Barcelino

The decision between a two-piece vs a three-piece suit hinges on the nature of the occasion and your personal comfort. Two-piece suits are often favored for their less restrictive feel. While a three-piece suit, with its additional layer, offers an elevated sense of style and sophistication. Both types have unique merits and offer a polished, professional appearance when worn correctly. As with any aspect of personal style, the choice boils down to what makes you feel most confident and at ease.

Single-Breasted vs. Double-Breasted Jackets

A jacket’s design is instrumental in determining a suit’s overall aura, and it is vital to choose between single-breasted and double-breasted styles. The single-breasted jacket is the more prevalent, with a solitary row of buttons and minimal fabric overlap.

This timeless look offers a sleek image that can complement a variety of body shapes, making it a versatile choice. The two-button, single-breasted jacket is immune to changing fashion trends and will always be a first choice in men’s style.

The double-breasted jacket presents a broader overlap of fabric and two parallel rows of buttons. This design exudes a highly formal appearance and can instill more sophistication in your outfit. But it’s key to remember that the double-breasted style doesn’t necessarily suit all body types. For instance, those with smaller frames and narrow body shapes might find this style overpowering, making it appear that the jacket is wearing them instead of the other way around. I would also argue that the double-breasted suit is one of the more dated and can be avoided altogether.

While both jacket styles have unique attributes, it’s essential to consider your body type and the occasion’s formality when selecting. Choosing a jacket style that best compliments your physique and aligns with the occasion can significantly boost your overall look and confidence. If you’re not sure, stick with the single-breasted jacket.

Suit Fit: The Golden Rule

When it comes to suits, a good fit is a non-negotiable. Whether you prefer a 2-piece or a 3-piece suit, single-breasted or double-breasted, the cut of your suit must be as close to a tailored fit as possible.

Rob Edward's the prime dude made to measure suit fitting

Made-To-Measure Fitting

The perfect fit, one that is tailor-made to your measurements, will be expensive unless you travel to or have connections in Asia. Fortunately, if you know a few key measurements and know where to look on Amazon, you can make the right choice for your body and desired look.

For your jacket, the shoulder seams should rest precisely where your shoulders end, creating a neat silhouette. Your suit trousers or slacks, on the other hand, should align with your natural waistline to ensure comfortable wear throughout the day. Remember to avoid any excess fabric that could bunch up and create a disheveled appearance. The jacket sleeve length should reveal about half or a quarter inch of your dress shirt, but this is more common with sport coats than suit jackets.

The trousers should break slightly above your shoes, depending on your preference. Remember, the ultimate goal is to feel confident in your suit. Slim fit blue slacks with tan cap toe dress shoesThe suit probably doesn’t fit correctly if you continuously adjust and fidget. A well-fitted suit can command attention and instill confidence, whether walking into a job interview, attending a formal occasion, or going about your regular workday. Therefore, investing the time and effort into finding a suit that fits you perfectly can pay dividends in terms of your appearance and self-assurance.

Prime Dude Favorite
Mens Slim Fit Lightweight Sport Coat Blazer Waffle Knit Casual Sport Coat for Dating
$69.99

One of my favorites and travels well. Fits to Size and is soft and comfortable.

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11/14/2024 12:30 am GMT
Men's 2 Button Herringbone Blazer Jacket Lightweight Casual Stretch Suit Jacket Grey
$69.99

It doesn't get more elegant or versatile than Dark Grey! Extremely comfortable to wear, has a soft feel, and looks like it costs Four Times the current price!

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11/13/2024 11:45 pm GMT

The best suit I have found on Amazon is from Azarman, and this is me wearing their Navy Blue.  I am a 42 Long, and the “42 Tall” fit right out of the package. I would classify the jacket as slim fit and the pants as modern fit. The pants were a little long, so I had them hemmed. Out the door, this gorgeous suit looks made to measure and costs about $125.

Fits True to Size
AZAR MAN Slim Fit Men Suit 2 Button Navy Blue Notch Lapel Flat Front Pants
$99.00

These suits fit true-to-size. I wear a 42L, and it fits perfectly. Azarman refers to this as "42 Tall." The pants come long so that you can tailor them to your liking.

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11/14/2024 04:33 pm GMT

I own and love these three Amazon options. These versatile selections can be worn professionally or casually. These Amazon links will take you to shocking fits and prices.

Bow Ties, Tuxedos, and Color Considerations

Tuxedos and bow ties reign supreme in formal wear, particularly for black-tie affairs. Pairing a double-breasted jacket with a three-piece suit in a sophisticated dark hue, like navy or classic black, can create an ensemble that truly resonates with the elegance of such events. A black suit is always a good idea for a formal event.

The choice of color is integral to expressing personal style while also aligning with the event’s formal quotient. Traditional darker shades, such as black, navy blue, and charcoal, are time-honored choices that ooze formality and are universally suitable for evening events or professional environments. However, lighter hues might be more appropriate for daytime functions or less formal settings, offering a refreshing divergence from the classic dark palette.

The art of pairing your suit with the right shirt and tie can also significantly enhance your overall look. For instance, pairing a navy suit for an evening event with a crisp white shirt and a matching navy bow tie can create a harmonious and stylish ensemble. Meanwhile, if you’re wearing a light gray suit for a daytime event, opting for a pastel or blue colored shirt and a contrasting tie can add an element of interest to your outfit. (For dress shirt ideas and incredible deals, read my article on Best Dress Shirts and access my links).

The key to mastering formal wear lies in harmonizing the various elements – suit, shirt, tie, and accessories – to create attire that conforms to the event’s formality level and echoes your personal style. Keep in mind that while there are general guidelines to follow, there are no hard and fast rules for fashion. After all, the most memorable outfits are often those that break the mold.

Shirt Selections and Accessory Additions

Selecting the right dress shirt is a key aspect of suiting up. While a clean, white dress shirt is a classic choice that never goes out of style, don’t hesitate to explore other colors and patterns to create a more distinctive look.

Go One Size Up
&COLLAR Slim Fit Long Sleeve Performance Men's Dress Shirt White
$48.00

Somewhat slim fit, not as baggy as other dress shirts. Love the stretch material. Very comfortable. They also have an "Athletic Fit" for big guys. Go one size up, I am usually a Large but "XL" fits perfectly.

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11/14/2024 04:55 am GMT

Balance is the keyword here – if your suit is more muted, feel free to experiment with a bolder shirt or vice versa. Pictured below, I am pairing the J Mier Light Blue Plaid Button Down with the Azar Man Navy Jacket.

Azarman w/ JMier Blue Check

Beyond the suit and shirt, accessories are the finishing touches that pull your outfit together and express your individuality. Pocket squares, for instance, can add vibrant color and texture to your ensemble. They’re not just functional but also serve as a key style statement. Remember to ensure they complement but do not exactly match your tie for a more sophisticated look.

Cufflinks, on the other hand, are a subtle way to inject personal style into your outfit. They may be small, but their impact on your overall look is undeniable. Choose a pair that speaks to your personality, whether that’s sleek and minimalist or bold and eye-catching. But be warned, if you travel like I do, avoid shirts that require cufflinks. They are easy to forget and these shirt styles are unwearable without some kind of cufflink.

Ties, arguably the most noticeable accessory, can make or break your outfit. Whether you’re wearing a classic long tie or a dapper bow tie, ensure it coordinates with the rest of your outfit and the occasion’s formality level. A well-chosen tie can elevate your suit to new sartorial heights.

Adulove Men's Necktie Classic Silk Tie Woven Jacquard Neck Ties 9 PCS
$29.98
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11/14/2024 01:12 am GMT

Ultimately, every outfit element, from shirt to accessories, should work harmoniously to create a coherent, stylish look that feels uniquely you.

JMIERR Dress Shirts for Men 100% Cotton Plaid Button Down Long Sleeve Shirt, Light Blue
$29.99

Eye-catching plaid pattern dress shirt. Versatile and fun. TRUE TO SIZE.

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11/13/2024 04:26 pm GMT

For affordable, impressive dress shirts, check out 2024 Best and Most Affordable Dress Shirts

The Importance of Personal Style and Fabric Selections

Your personal comfort, taste, and style should be your primary guides when choosing a suit. Current trends may offer helpful insights, but it’s crucial to remember that you’ll always look and feel your best in a suit that resonates with your unique aesthetic.

The selection of suit fabric also plays a significant role in determining the suit’s appearance and your comfort level while wearing it. Wool, a traditional choice, is prized for its durability and its ability to maintain a clean, crisp look. It also breathes well, making it a solid option for various climates. Cotton and linen suits, meanwhile, offer a lightweight alternative that’s particularly well-suited to warmer weather.

However, consider investing in a custom-made suit for a truly indulgent and personalized touch. With a suit explicitly tailored to your measurements and design preferences, you’ll ensure an exceptional fit and have the opportunity to select the precise fabric, color, and style details that best reflect your personal style. But save this experience when you’ve built a versatile wardrobe with a navy and gray 2-piece suit.  This goes for a 3-piece suit because, in many cases, you do not wear the vest, so make sure it is a fabric and color you enjoy wearing.

Your suit is a direct extension of your personal brand. It’s an opportunity to project an image that’s professional and uniquely yours. So, whether you’re leaning towards a classic woolen 2-piece suit or considering a custom-made 3-piece ensemble in an adventurous fabric, let your choices be guided by what feels right. After all, when you’re comfortable in your clothing, you exude a natural confidence that will leave a lasting impression.