BY STEVEN MAY 28, 2023
If one aspect of grooming can be a pain point for the modern man, it’s shaving. This is particularly true for shaving with sensitive skin. That prickly sensation, followed by the red, irritated aftermath, can make shaving more of a battle than a simple routine. But guess what? It doesn’t have to be that way. Today, we’re diving deep into the best shaving routine for sensitive skin. If you perform resistance or high-intensity training, you know the importance of a “pre-workout, intra-workout, and post-workout” routine. Let’s look at your next shave the same way. I’ll walk you through the simple practices I learned over the years. Starting with my military inspection days, I have learned a lot through trial and error, and I want to help you find your best way to achieve a close shave with the right razor blade without the risk of irritation. To evaluate the products fairly, I used a Double Edge Safety Razor from Vikings Blade in all FOUR shaving sessions. I compare some of the top shaving product providers: Proraso, Viking Revolution, The Art of Shaving, and Murdock of London. Below, I provide links for the razor and all Pre, Intra (Cream), and Post-shave products.
The golden rule of shaving with sensitive skin is to be gentle and precise. Moreover, the goal is to avoid harm or discomfort. Extremes are your enemy. Say goodbye to anything too rough, hot, cold, or sharp. It’s about maintaining a balanced routine and using products that soothe, not agitate, your skin. And remember, what works for your buddy might not work for you. Always shave at a 30-degree angle, AND NEVER try to squeeze an extra shave out of a potentially dull blade. Always use a sharp blade for no more than five shaving sessions and listen to your skin. Adjust your routine as necessary. It’s about finding the sweet spot between efficiency and comfort. Finally, it’s NOT about the cost or number of products! It’s about their effectiveness in meeting your skin’s unique needs. Let’s start with the first and often most overlooked step in the face-shaving process – The Pre-Shave.
A smoother shave with less risk of irritation starts with skin prep. Dry shaving is not an option; dry skin is the worst possible shaving canvas and the most common cause of razor burn. The first step towards a smooth, irritation-free shave is to warm up your skin and hair. Ensure the water is warm but not scalding, and use a gentle cleanser to open pores, soften stubborn facial hair, and remove any dirt or oil that could cause inflammation or infection.
Once you’ve cleaned and gently dried your skin, it’s time to take some extra protective measures. A pre-shave oil or lotion provides a protective barrier against the potential assault of the razor. They condition and moisturize your skin and will reduce your risk of irritation. I compare four preshave products designed to prep the skin and hair. Use a small amount and rub it in thoroughly, as excess oil can limit the effectiveness of a sharp razor. Once rubbed in completely, you’re ready to apply the shaving cream. These pre-shave oils condition and moisturize your skin and can drastically reduce the risk of irritation. Never wash off, as the oil is meant to remain while applying your shaving cream.
All have different ingredient profiles and vary significantly in price. I’ll tell you if a higher-priced option, like Art of Shaving’s preshave with castor and essential oils, is worth it. Remember that the prices are closer when you factor in “per ounce,” as Art of Shaving offers the most with 2 ounces.
A quality shaving cream that provides your skin with the necessary protection during the shave is essential. When you browse this category on Amazon, you will be overwhelmed with choices claiming to be formulated for “sensitive skin.” I chose hypoallergenic products that don’t contain strong fragrances. This will protect my skin from potential irritants, allowing for a smooth and comfortable razor glide. I always apply my chosen shaving cream in a circular motion. This distributes the product evenly and helps lift the hair follicles, priming them for a close shave. It also allows me to feel the direction of hair growth before applying the razor, as we always want to shave in the direction of hair growth, never against it.
The most crucial step in shaving sensitive skin is choosing the right tool. I chose the quality safety razor from Vikings Blade “Chieftan” because it is reasonably priced and well-reviewed. I have been using it for over a year. It is a Double-Edge or DE Safety Razor. I used fresh blades before each shave and took detailed notes to ensure I compared all products fairly. Now, let’s talk shaving technique.
The proper shaving technique is crucial to ensuring a comfortable and smooth shave. Once I have applied the cream, it’s time for the razor. Grip it comfortably but firmly. Apply light pressure and shave in the direction of your hair growth. Shaving “against the grain” of your hair growth is one of the common causes of razor burn. Use gentle strokes and stay at a 30-degree angle to the face. Don’t shave more than 1 to 1.5 inches per stroke with the safety blade.
Razor glide should be downwards on the cheeks following the direction. For the neck, many “experts” claim you should shave upward. Wrong. Every face is different. Feel for yourself during any of your pre-shave routines. My neck hair grows at a 45-degree angle down from left to right. I used to shave at a straight, downward angle across my neck, always resulting in a razor burn spot at a less-than-flattering location. This hair-directional technique, combined with your right razor, oil, and cream combination, will minimize the chances of razor burn and ingrown hairs.
Remember to rinse your blade with warm water after each stroke, keeping it clean and free from product build-up. This allows the blade to glide smoothly across your skin without any hitches. And don’t rush; shaving is not a race. Take your time, especially around the tricky areas like your jawline and neck. Do not apply too much pressure. This doesn’t equate to a closer shave. It can lead to skin irritation and nicks. Let the sharpness of the blade do the work. Lastly, don’t over-shave an area, especially with a safety razor. One to two passes should be sufficient. Constantly dragging a blade over the same spot can be irritating and damaging to your skin. Remember, a “clean shave” is comfortable, not necessarily the closest one.
When your shave is complete, always rinse with COLD WATER. This helps close the open pores, calm the skin, and close any minor nicks. Next, apply an aftershave balm or lotion free from alcohol and strong fragrances to avoid irritating your sensitive skin. This critical step will help hydrate and soothe your skin, reducing any stinging or irritation caused by shaving. I strongly recommend a “balm” versus a “lotion”, as balms are a bit thicker and contain helpful ingredients like shea butter and coconut oil. The quality products I evaluate in this competition do not require much and will last longer than cheap, alcohol-based aftershave.
The Proraso shaving products work incredibly well together. I have used the foam without the Proraso Pre-Shave Cream, which is a much better shave when used together. I love this preshave because it is thicker and more accessible to apply than pre-shave oils. This pre-shave is unique and could be the secret to the shaving sauce. The Foam applied evenly in a thick layer, much thicker than any shaving cream foam or gel I have used. When shaving with the Vikings Blade Razor, I had confidence and control over Proraso Products. After rinsing and drying my face, the Proraso After Shave was a delight to apply; the sensitive skin formula has a pleasant, subtle smell as you apply the soothing balm to your face. If you stop here and order these products for your shaving needs, you will have a world-class experience for the rest of your shaving days.
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Undoubtedly, it is one of the best families of shaving products available for the money. I love the subtle sandalwood smell of their pre-shave oil, and the shaving cream spreads thick with a small or moderate amount. Going into the competition, I wasn’t sure Viking Revolution would hang with the likes of Proraso and The Art of Shaving, but they have. Easily.
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Art of Shaving is globally known as THE premium brand in shaving products. I have used all of their products, specially formulated for sensitive skin. I started working with the preshave, cream, and balm a couple of months ago, and I love all of them. My only drawback is the pre-shave oil, which is an excellent product but comes in a glass, twist-top container. It is easy to nearly spill and use too much oil, which can be costly. The quality of all three products may be unmatched, but they are also expensive. However, you get what you pay for and can’t go wrong with these sensitive shaving products from The Art of Shaving family.
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Murdock of London is new to me and a “high-end” line of shaving products. The cream is quite nice, and I love that they offer travel-size cream. However, it is not quite where Art of Shaving or Viking Revolution creams deliver. But it is formulated for sensitive skin. I like the Murdock preshave oil and the “pump-style” container. The oil is perfectly balanced, not too thick or liquid. I think it wins or comes close.
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Winning Pre-Shave: Proraso Pre-Shave Cream – there’s nothing like it. All of the oils were excellent, but this preshave cream is exquisite. Viking Revolution and Murdock are great for travel.
Winning Cream: Viking Revolution Shaving Cream for Sensitive Skin – the most bang for the buck. Thick and rich, about as good as Art of Shaving but for less money per ounce.
Winning After Shave: Proraso Afer Shave Balm for Sensitive Skin – This soothing formula has the perfect consistency and smells like an old Italian barbershop.
This was a tough competition; if I had to, I could shave every day with any of these products. For the price, if I had to pick one family of products, it would be Proraso. Specially formulated for sensitive skin with that subtle Italian Barber product smell, Proraso has carved itself a nice niche selling Italian Barber grade.
Shaving with sensitive skin can irritate, even if you use a high-quality shaving foam cream. Another product I occasionally add (before the aftershave balm) is an aloe vera gel from Being Naturals, if you have immediate irritation or burn add a small amount to the affected area immediately, then apply your after shave balm.